lonestranger

I'm afraid I can't help you there, Charlie. I pulled out my old Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ28 and charged up the battery to see if I could refresh my memory on how the controls work in the hopes that your Panasonic had some what similar controls. When I powered it up and turned the main program dial to Manual, all it did was go back and forth between IntelligentAuto and Program mode, I couldn't access Aperture or Shutter mode or any of the dozen or so other options on the dial. Maybe it's a Panasonic glitch that just doesn't like Manual mode... Perhaps contacting Panasonic tech support can sh

I can't be certain of what's going on, Charlie, but here's my suspicions. Your camera probably shows a +/-3 meter that can't tell you when the exposure is way beyond the low end of the scale's range. If the scale only goes to -3 and lets say that the exposure is actually -6, you're only going to see -3 on the scale. Turning the dial once or twice won't show any change on the scale, it would still read -3 because the actual exposure would now be at -4. I can't help but wonder if you took a couple of pics when you didn't want to push the shutter button, if you may have been able to see a slight

I suggest that you try using your view screen to review some of your photos while you are actively using the camera, Charlie. Your display screen should be able to show you whether your shots are underexposed and too dark, or overexposed and too bright, using blinkies(for lack of a better word) can help show overexposed/underexposed areas. Zooming in while viewing the photo should be able to give you an indicator if the subject is in or out focus and how noisy/grainy the image is, too. My theory is that while viewing photos on the camera, the more I can zoom in on my photo without signs of dis

The first thing I notice about your two killdeer shots, @Charlie Spencer, is that the lighting in the second photo is a lot better than the first photo. While fast shutter speeds are desirable to prevent blur from subject movement and/or camera shake, slow shutter speeds with lower ISO settings can achieve excellent results if your subject is still enough and you are steady enough. Good image stabilization in the camera helps too, but the quality of light can make or break a photo, which I believe is what has happened when comparing your two photos. The better lighting of the second killdeer p

Here's an explanation of this morning's manual exposure setup and the shots I took afterwards. Using my Nikon P900 superzoom point and shoot, I set the mode dial to M for manual, this mode only manually adjusts the exposure or the brightness/darkness of the photo, it does not affect the automatic focus which I always have set to a single center point focus. I then dove into the menu and set my ISO to 400 before raising the camera to my eye. Using the display button on the camera, I had previously set the display to show the camera's settings and the exposure meter/scale so I can see the settin

That's a very important tip. If you have to raise the centre column to achieve eye level, then you're using a monopod on top of a tripod and lose stability.

Did you forget to post the link birdbrain22?

Adjusting the exposure manually isn't going to be much help with focusing issues, Charlie. Using f/8 for your aperture will help getting more of the area in focus, but it won't help much if the camera focuses on the branches out in front of the bird (and it will produce slower shutter speeds and/or higher ISO noise issues). Your hermit thrush photos didn't focus on the branches but instead found the opening through the branches so it could focus on the bird. Shots like that are hard regardless of what camera or exposure settings you're using. Zooming in as much as possible can help in finding

I totally agree with you, manual focus is one function that I never use on my superzoom because it's so slow and less accurate than auto focus, I seldom used manual focus on my DSLR either. As long as I preset my ISO and aperture at the beginning of my outing, adjusting the main dial, which controls my shutter speed, is super easy. Here's my procedure if you want to give it a try. I start by setting my aperture wide open, using the smallest f/#. I then set my ISO to 400 or 800 depending on how bright it is out. I then look through the viewfinder while pointing the camera at the grass or

I respectfully disagree, I think it's actually faster to use manual to adjust exposure than it is to use exposure compensation in shutter or aperture priority. Manual mode requires pre-setting the ISO and aperture but once those two elements of the exposure triangle are set, all you have to adjust is the shutter speed to fine tune the exposure. Once in a while an adjustment to the ISO or aperture is required, but most of the time I am just turning one dial to adjust the shutter speed/exposure. Using exposure compensation requires pushing buttons before turning the dial to adjust the shutter sp

Thanks for the offer Seattle, but the end of her week out west is tomorrow, which she'll be spending with her niece, and then she's coming home Monday.

Whether there's an eagle #14 or not, that's an impressive number to see clustered together. Hopefully my girlfriend will be blessed with seeing numbers like this while she's vacationing in the Vancouver area this week. 🤞

Looks like you miss counted, I don't see a #14.

If you copy and paste(or drag and drop) your images right into the message box, they should upload(I think) and would greatly help with IDing your mystery bird.

Since water falls seem to a popular theme, here's a shot I took of Hilton Falls back in 2011. Untitled by lonestranger102, on Flickr

I don't think that there is much support for iBird on this forum. The members here are great at helping to identify birds, but there isn't a lot of technical know how shared here. While the iBird developer is the @Administrator of this forum, there isn't much support for iBird other than the suggestion to visit the iBird website and contact them and submit a request for support there.

This is how I saw it, too. 😁

@Leeward Birder, Here's a photo of a hummingbird moth, (which are quite variable) with the white rump that you couldn't match to any of the hummingbirds.

I could be way off here, but my first impression was a hummingbird moth, not an actual hummingbird.

There is a downloadable checklist on the ABA website. http://listing.aba.org/aba-checklist/ Printing out multiple copies would allow you to create yard lists, county lists, state/province lists, life lists, and yearly lists.

Welcome to Whatbird, alana. One method for uploading a video is to upload the video to youtube, or similar type site, and then paste the link directly into the message box. I hope that helps.

Welcome to Whatbird, @Shirley Phares. I can't help with your ID but if you post it to the North America ID forum, you'll likely get a much quicker response. Personally, I have no idea why there is an iBird Only ID forum. All this forum does, in my opinion, is segregate the iBird ID requests from the other ID requests. The North American ID forum is more than capable of IDing birds for iBird users, and much quicker at doing so, too. There is nothing unique or helpful in using this iBird exclusive forum, it's nothing but a waste of space, in my opinion.

Birds can disappear suddenly for a variety of reasons. A new cat roaming the neighbourhood can have an impact on birds and squirrels alike.

I'm not sure how much help you'll be able to find on this forum, DC064. @Administrator usually suggests that people fill out a support request ticket on the iBird website when iBird problems are mentioned here. If you have already done that, twice, then you may have to hope that one of the members that uses iBird has had similar problems and found a solution. While the members here are great at helping with bird IDs, I'm not sure the same can be said about helping to identify programming problems though. Perhaps Admin will address your post now that he has been tagged, that is about the only

The link seems to be changing frequently, I am seeing a totally different photo.